Choosing Plants For Landscaping

Some homes have landscaping that is just incredible to look at. When you are designing your own landscape, a large part of it is choosing plants. For landscaping, you need to choose plants that will fit your lifestyle.

There are several thing that you need to consider before selecting the actual plants that you will use.

What are you trying to accomplish for your yard?

How much space is going to be devoted to it?

To get the best results for your landscape project, you need to have a plan that you will work from. The type of landscape plan that you create will be different depending on what you are trying to accomplish. To decide what you want to accomplish, consider what the final goal is.

Would you like your landscape project to:

create a private haven,

create an area to entertain,

create a bird sanctuary,

create a wildflower garden,

create a beautiful place to welcome you home,

dress up an existing eye sore,

simply be a small flower bed

As this small, incomplete list shows, there are many possible outcomes for even a well planned landscape. Taking the time to plan out what the finished project will be will help to accomplish what you have in mind.

Once you have a plan for your landscape project, it is time to start choosing plants. For landscaping plants, there are several key items to consider.

1. Do you enjoy working in the yard?

- Some plants require a lot of maintenance while others are maintenance free.

2. How close to the house will it be?

- Many varieties of plants grow extremely large and can cause issues if planted in the wrong place.

3. Do they over-populate the lawn?

- Many plants produce seeds that are spread by the wind or birds.

4. What colors would you like to use?

- Your favorite plants may be available in a multitude of colors.

5. How easy are they to get rid of?

- Many plants travel by root systems that can overtake the yard.

6. Will this be a container garden or planted?

- Not all plants do well inside containers.

Many landscape nightmares happen because the plants are chosen when they are small. Most often, people do not realize how large a plant will become as it matures. Rhododendrun plants are placed right against the house, honeysuckle is placed where it is free to overtake the entire yard, etc. When these types of mistakes are made, the plants can quickly overtake the yard and ruin your plans, turning your landscape dream into a daily nightmare.

Once you have a complete landscape plan, it is much easier to have a vision of how it should turn out. Use this vision to start researching the plants that will be used in the design. Look around at other landscape projects to see what types of plants you enjoy and what to expect as they grow. Look at the different color combinations as well as the layout of the heights and specific types of plants. You will quickly figure out what plants compliment one another.

Another thing to keep in mind is that plants will look different during different seasons, and even at different times during the season. You may need to use plants that "flower" at different times during the season to keep your design all season long.

Researching the types of plants that you are considering using and knowing what to expect from them as they grow is the best way of choosing plants for landscaping. This will ensure that you are satisfied with the landscaped space that you have created for many years to come.

Why Silk Plants Have Enjoyed a Resurgence in Interior Landscaping

Silk has long been revered as one of the most beautiful materials known to man, boasting a natural sheen and a coolness of touch that few other materials have. For centuries, this attraction to silk has been extreme, especially in the clothing industry where pure silk dresses and shirts are so highly prized. There can be little surprise, then, that silk plants are also keenly sought after.

Once upon a time, these plants were an extravagant example of craftsmanship that won plaudits at state fairs across the country, and were the ones that hotels were happy to invest grandly in to give guests a sense of luxury when they walked through the doors. These days, they are a key aspect of interior business landscaping both in terms of large and small floral displays.

Indeed, the market for artificial plants has grown dramatically in recent decades, with a range of materials coming into favor from time to time. However, in recent years, silk has regained its place as the favored material with which to enhance the interior landscape of an office or reception area. But designers are keen to highlight that it is not just because silk looks pretty.

Quality of plants

The quality of plants made of silk is particularly high. In the past, silk was colored and then cut into the shape of a leaf or petal, and then applied to a framework, usually made of wire. However, that simple process has been replaced by high tech precision machines that are capable of creating perfectly measured plant parts. Not only that, but the coloring has become so exact that every aspect of shading can be allowed for.

The result is that, both visually and physically, these plants have real depth to them, making them very difficult to differentiate from real flowers. In fact, the silk materials used are made in such a manner as to replicate as closely as possible the texture of a real petal, bud or leaf.

So, even touch, which was once a sure give away when identifying an artificial plant, is no longer a reliable way to tell the difference.

Durability

There was a time when the petals on silk flowers and foliage on plants would fray over time, making the plant itself look dowdy and old. But the processes involved in manufacturing these plants have been perfected, ensuring this is no longer a concern, and the plants maintain their impressive appearance for much longer.

Of course, artificial plants, tend to last much longer than real plants. They require little or no maintenance, can never die so do not need to be replaced regularly, need no watering and no feeding. silk always enjoyed these same traits, but since silk frays less easily now, the durability of silk artificial plants is even greater than it once was.

No Fire Hazard

As a choice of artificial plant material, silk may have succeeded in regaining its place at the top table in the eyes of interior landscapers for its quality and durability, but others favor it for different reasons. With fire and safety regulations being so important for all buildings, the fact that silk flowers, trees and plants have passed a range of tests makes it an acceptable material.

Silk is a fire retardant and has passed both the NFPA 701 and the ASTM E84 tests, with the result that interior landscapers know it will not harm the fire-safety status of an office. Other materials, such as plastic and nylon can release toxic fumes when set ablaze, making them not just a fire hazard but a health hazard also.

The fact that silk plants are now considered a safe option, as well as a precise replica boasting quality and extreme beauty, makes them impossible to ignore. Little wonder then, that interior designers and landscapers are happy to use them as an alternative to real plants, and that safety officers in workplaces are happy to accept them too.

Needless to say, as far as office workers are concerned, it is the fact that these plants make the interior landscape at work so much more pleasing that matters most. The degree of creativity, reliability and durability that silk boasts makes it a favorite once again when business landscaping plans are being agreed between seasoned landscapers and their clients.

Landscaping With Woody Plants

Woody plants, by definition, are plants that have hard stems, thus the name 'woody', and that have buds which survive above ground in winter. They are typically perennial plants having their stems and larger roots reinforced with wood produced adjacent to the vascular tissues. Wood is an adaptation that permits woody plants to grow from above ground stems year after year, thus making some woody plants the tallest and largest plants. For example, trees, which are further broken down into the evergreen and deciduous categories, are woody plants.

Trees block out part of the sky, defining the sky's border, besides contributing structure to the garden. Branches and trunks act as beams and posts to bring the sky down to a more human scale. For this sky management, trees have a purpose in every landscape. By providing the shade, they are able to filter sunlight and cool the air via evapotranspiration, thus leaves can reduce the temperature by nearly 10 degrees Fahrenheit on a hot summer day. Every garden should have a shady nook, as shade also protects from excess sun that can be dangerous for your skin and harm your eyes. Some trees are known as 'shade trees ', which are normally taller trees with a broad crown.

Woody landscape plants represent a natural resource of considerable economic, cultural and strategic importance. Woody plants come in all shapes and sizes, from tall and erect to low and creeping. woody plants are evergreen and deciduous shrubs, basically any plant that does not die back to the ground is considered a woody plant, thus trees and shrubs would be considered woody plants. woody plants are available from low-growing ground cover type plants to 100-foot towering trees. woody plants are a permanent, year long presence in the landscape which helps determine their major uses. They can provide a canopy for outdoor rooms, create a backdrop for ornamental herbaceous plants, provide shade from the hot summer sun or shelter from winter winds, help conserve energy in our homes, screen undesirable views, provide edible food for us, provide food and shelter for wildlife, create striking seasonal interest with flowers, fruit, twigs and barks, and fill the air with fragrance, and visually balance buildings in the landscape.

Virginia Blue Bells is a favorite woodland wildflower, and they prefer light shade to partial sun in most wooded areas with rich soil. The foliage generally dies down by mid-summer. Each Virginia Blue Bell blossom consists of five fused petals that form their tubular shape. Their buds begin with a pinkish shade that transforms into a blue-violet color as they age. The flowers are about one inch long with five stamens surrounding one central pistil. Butterflies are the most common pollinators, as they can easily perch on the edges and enjoy the nectar. The flowers die rather quickly, and the plants are usually dormant by early June. They should be planted near ferns like, the Christmas Fern and other native wildflowers that bloom later in the year to provide your garden with color for the remaining summer season.

Christmas Fern is found mostly in woodlands, and should be placed in a garden in masses, or added to shade beds for year round color and contrasts with other perennials.

Christmas Ferns are popular as they are one of the few ferns that will stay green all winter long, and being an evergreen fern, it adds color to a garden all year through. Christmas Fern occur in moist and dry wooded areas, ravines and moist banks. These asymmetrical ferns have a fine texture and a dense crown, which will sprout new fiddleheads in the springtime, and they prefer partial shade. Christmas Ferns have 12 to 18 inches fountain like clumps of fronds with leathery, lance-shaped, dark green leaflets and the fronds of these ferns vary in length from 2 to 3 feet. They can be planted in pots, on the ground and are widely used for floral arrangement

Landscaping - Plant and Shrub Protection

There's nothing worse than spending hundreds maybe thousands of dollars on new plants and shrubs for your landscape only to have them damaged by Mother Nature. Plant and shrub protection is very important especially in a young landscape.

Spring protection involves shielding tender plants and blooms from a late frost that can wipe out an entire investment. What is used to protect plants depends on what is being covered; a whole bed of petunias or a prized tomato plant.

Coverings vary from bed sheets, to sticks and plastic, to pre-designed reusable structures. When covering tender plants take caution that the coverings do not lie on the plants or touch the leaves.

Winter protection for your landscape involves preventative care for your tender perennials and young or delicate shrubs. Winter damage can occur from diverse sources.

Evergreen shrubs need to be protected from the drying winds of winter. Moisture evaporates faster than the frozen roots can replenish leaving the needles brown on the tips or even worse. Bushes need to be shielded from the wind and also a strong sunny southern exposure. For large evergreens, burlap wraps are available otherwise building a windscreen is sufficient.

Young shrubs, evergreen or deciduous, and perennials need to be protected from more than just the wind. Plant damage can occur from hungry rabbits and deer, bark or root damage from extreme temperature changes, and structural damage from heavy snowfall especially when planted near sidewalks and driveways.

Perennial protection can be as simple as a good mulch cover, but shrub protection usually requires more creativity and some construction. It can involve tepees made of evergreen branches, chicken wire filled with leaves, or complex frames to protect shrubs from the snow. Pre-made devices are available on the market and can be convenient depending on simplicity of installation and storage, for instance The Garden Dome made by Riverbirch.

The time, money and effort spent on protecting your new landscape are an investment with a profitable return in years of enjoyment and loads of compliments on your beautiful landscape.

The Use of the Aronia Berry Plant for Landscaping and Its Use As an Edible Ornamental Plant

Introduction

Chokeberry plants are very good plants for growing as part of your landscape. The black chokeberry (or Aronia berry plant) was introduced to western gardens as a landscape plant around 1700, and that its value is reflected by its receipt of the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Merit in 1972.

Landscape

The ornamental attributes of chokeberry plants include three seasons of interest: white flowers in spring, lustrous green foliage in summer and black bluish fruits in late summer, and bright yellow-orange-red foliage in autumn. There is growing interest in this plant as a multi-season native shrub for landscapes. Its adaptability to a wide range of soil conditions and freedom from major problems makes it a good candidate for wetland reclamation projects, roadside and highway plantings, parking lots and use in your garden and landscape.

The chokeberry or Aronia plant is a native North American plant. However recently this cultivar has been developed in Europe as an orchard fruit, but its attractive value was rapidly realized (as it began obtaining awards for its decorative value.). It is now a favorite ornamental fruiting plant grown the world over. It grows in zones 3-8.it is one of the most ornamental fruiting bushes you can grow.

In spring the Aronia bush is covered with clusters of white, sweet fragrant flowers. They are cold tolerant and avoid most frosts by blooming in late spring. This is followed by gleaming green Aronia berries that turn a dark bluish black in summer into early fall, and fire-red fall foliage. The round, pea-sized fruit can be eaten fresh although it has a distinct taste. It is known for making good and healthful juice that also blends nicely with other fruit juices. Aronia is NOT bothered by pests or diseases. Once established the Aronia bush is highly drought tolerant. It's very hardy, and the pea sized fruit can be eaten fresh. Fresh chokeberries right from the bush are not particularly tasty raw because of their astringency, some people like them when they are completely ripe. Aronia berries have a unique, satisfying flavor. Their astringency is the awareness that most people first notice. They will make your mouth pucker. The dry, puckering taste comes from being high in tannins. The secret is to freeze the berries before using them to break down the tannins. You must wait until September when they are fully ripe before you pick them. The berries can be used to make jam, syrup, juice, soft spreads, and tea.

One person described it as one of the most attractive fruiting bushes I have ever grown. It is a delight in the garden the whole year. Fragrant flowers, attractive fall foliage, and healthy berries make it an essential plant for astute gardeners.

In the spring clusters of sweet-scented white blooms develop among the shiny green to dark green leaves covering this 3- to 5-foot-tall, 5- to 6-foot-wide bush. The flowers attract bees and butterflies. The long-lasting flowers are enjoyably, and are followed by small berries that steadily mature to dark bluish black. The dark bluish black berries of chokeberry hang in groups of up to 12 berries. They do not require trellising, spraying, or bird netting.

The three most popular varieties are Viking, Nero and Autumn Magic. Viking and Nero were developed in Europe as an orchard fruit and recently shipped back to the United States here they are becoming popular. They are also sold as a favorite ornamental fruiting plant. Autumn Magic was developed in the United States from a seedling in the eastern part of the U.S. The Autumn Magic plant is a commonly sold ornamental cultivar. It was selected for its ornamental characteristic white flowers, glossy green leaves, red-orange fall foliage, and purplish black berries. It does not grow as tall as Viking and Nero. Viking grows to a height at maturity of 5 to 8 ft. Nero grows to a height of 3 to 5 ft.

Health benefits

Aronia melanocarpa is commonly known as chokeberry and has a very nice-looking purplish black color. Interest in Aronia berries has been growing because of its health benefits and as a natural organic food coloring. It has a very stable dark pigment.

Chokeberries belong to that group of purple berries that are in today's news concerning health and nutrition. It fights cancer and heart disease.

The plant produces dark pigmented berries that are extremely high in antioxidants, even higher than blueberries, higher than pomegranates, and higher than cranberries. Its juice has been reported to help people with heart conditions. Chokeberries have been a significant and important part of the Native American Indian diet since before Europeans came to America. It is high in antioxidants, anthocyanins, phenolic acid, flavonoids, vitamin C and trace minerals.

Summary

Chokeberry plants are very good plants for growing as part of your landscape. The plant produces dark pigmented berries that are extremely high in antioxidants. It has award-winning its decorative value. They are higher than blueberries, higher than cranberries, higher, even, than pomegranates! Its juice has been reported to help people with heart conditions.

Protect Your Landscape Plants From Hot, Dry Weather

Here in the Upstate of South Carolina we are experiencing severe drought conditions. plants are dying for lack of moisture. People such as yourself have stopped improving your yards. Why spend time and money and effort, just to see your plants dry up and die? I can show you how your plants can beat the heat with ease. And, by protecting your plants from drought conditions, you will also be reducing the growth of weeds and automatically be saving yourself the effort of putting down costly ground cover cloth.

One very simple way to help your plants stay moist all summer long is to build layers of water-saving mulch. While you are saving your plants, you will be doing yourself and your community a huge favor; you will be recycling. That mulch is already waiting for you at no additional cost to you.

If your home or business is anything like mine, you generate loads of junk mail, phone books, catalogs, cereal, cracker and cardboard boxes every day. If it is made out of paper, it will bio-degrade! Keep it out of the landfill. Why purchase bagged soil amendments when you are hauling free mulch home in every grocery bag or picking it up by the handful from your mailbox every day? A shredder is nice, but you don't really need a shredder if you don't already own one.

Here's how you do it:
1. Use a shovel to loosen the soil in a small area around where you want to put your new plant.

2. Wet down the ground, either with water from a bucket or garden hose.

3. Set your plant in the ground. Set it high in the hole. Leave some of the potting mix showing above the ground to start with.

4. Place at least 10 layers of newspaper all around the plant. Don't crowd the paper up too close to the plant. Mice might like to chew on the paper and enjoy your tree, too.

5. Wet down the newspaper so it will not blow away while you start the next step.

6. Flatten out a large cardboard box. Cut a hole about 3-6 inches larger than your plant.

7. Lay this cardboard around your plant to hold down the wet newspaper. Or, you can use several smaller boxes and overlap the edges so weeds can't get through.

8. Wet down the cardboard.

9. Mulch over the cardboard and up around the new plant. (Bark or pine straw mulch, leaves, grass clippings, anything that will eventually rot down, but will hold moisture now.

10. Wet down the mulch as you put it down so it is nice and damp.

11. Inspect you tree after several days. Stick your hand in under all that mulch and see if the ground is moist. If not, water again.

12. It is possible that you may not have to water again all summer. Please do check under the mulch every few weeks if there is no rainfall. Some plants require more water than others.

13. Fertilize in the spring. Do NOT fertilized late in the summer. It will encourage tender new growth too late in the season and you plant may be damaged by frost during the winter.

14. Renew the mulch as needed. If the grass and weeds really take over, put down more layers of wet newspaper and cardboard and mulch.

Growing Bamboo As a Landscape Plant

Bamboo is one of the most versatile plants in the world. The wood from bamboo is extremely light, strong, and durable, yet it grows far faster than even much softer woods. For all of its marvelous strength as a building material, it can also be processed to create some of the softest fabric available today. All of this is in a plant that is also very disease-resistant, easy to grow, and quite beautiful. For these reasons and more, it is quickly becoming a popular choice as a landscape plant. Big bamboo is especially popular as a privacy plant for it's extraordinarily quick growth. With a little care, it can be an excellent addition to your garden or landscape.

Choosing the Right bamboo plant for You

The main considerations when choosing your bamboo should be hardiness. This is a pretty simple thing to factor in, as any reputable nursery or plant source will be able to tell you the hardiness by zone of any bamboo they sell. When choosing your bamboo, keep in mind the eventual height and potential for invasiveness. Many types of bamboo spread rapidly, and this can become a problem in coming years. To reduce this, either choose a bamboo that is of a non-running or clumping type or install a spread barrier. A spread barrier can be just a sheet of thick plastic (about 40 mil) creating an underground border defining the edge of the area in which you want your bamboo to be spread. Bury your plastic from the surface to around three feet deep to block the rhizomes from spreading the plant underground. The height to which some big bamboo varieties grow can also surprise many new growers. Most common varieties can be trimmed fairly easily to a wide range of heights, but trimming the top ten feet off of a thirty-five foot tall plant can be somewhat difficult. Thus, it is sometimes best to keep upward growth limitations in mind when choosing your bamboo if you won't be willing or able to trim it down.

Planting bamboo

Choose a spot for your bamboo that gets a fair amount of sun; either full sun for part of the day or filtered sun all day. Most bamboo types do well near water, but don't thrive with wet roots, especially when young. For most bamboos, plant in a moderately acidic, loamy soil. In very heavy soil, digging organic material into the dirt where you are planting can make a big difference, as can heavy mulching (which will attract earthworms, who will loosen the soil for you). Depth and hole size will vary depending on the type of bamboo you're planting, so following the instructions of your plant source is best. Generally, though, you'll dig a hole to about the same depth as the root ball and break up the soil around it to allow the roots room to grow out. Water thoroughly once you've filled in around the root ball, and keep the plant watered for the first several weeks, taking care not to overwater (the ground should be moist but not wet a few minutes after watering). Too little water is better than too much water for newly transplanted bamboo, but keep in mind that new bamboo in hot or windy weather will need more water. The best time to plant bamboo varies by area, but spring is usually best, as it will give the bamboo plant lots of time to establish itself before winter comes. However, in mild climates most of the year works well, and even in cooler climates nearly any warm part of the year will work, so long as there is time for your bamboo to get established for winter.

Bamboo plant Care

Bamboo is a pretty versatile, adapting plant, and if you've chosen the right type for your area and planted it in a good spot, it should do well with very little care once established. However, if you want to maximize growth, there are three important parts of bamboo care to keep in mind: mulching, fertilizing, and watering. A thick mulch can do a great deal to protect the roots of your bamboo, especially if you are growing bamboo that is only borderline hardy to your area or if planting later in the year, and it can also provide nutrients and help the soil to stay moist. Just about any organic mulch will work. The leaves that fall from your bamboo throughout the year, and especially in spring, are best left on the ground where they can act as part of the mulch and recycle nutrients back into the soil. Grass is the best mulch for bamboo, but hay and wood chippings are also great choices. For quickest growth, fertilize in the Spring after the plant is well established. A general chemical fertilizer is OK, but a light layer of cow manure (or any other cool manure) will work better (as well as being cheaper and better for the environment). bamboo does pretty well without too much water, but if you want your plants to thrive throughout the dry seasons, you'll need to water them regularly, letting the ground dry out between waterings.

Bamboo is an extremely tough plant, capable of surviving many types of mistreatment. It is also a beautiful plant with unique characteristics that make it a perfect plant for privacy, sound dampening, or just as an accent for almost any property or garden.

Suit Your House - Choosing Landscape Plants

The plants you select and plant in your landscape can create a dramatic effect to accentuate the positive or ruin its charm.

Choose plants to Suit the House

If a house is high and narrow, use tall, spreading shrubs such as lilac or honeysuckle placed beside the front corners. This "pulls it down," especially if you plant smaller shrubs next to them to taper off to ground level.

Emphasize upright lines of Georgian or Colonial doorways by framing them with columnar cedars or junipers, or "pull them down" by planting low, globular cedars or mugo pines. If the house is wide and rambling, use soft, spreading deciduous shrubs to match its lines and upright, columnar ones to break the monotony.

Ranch style houses call for low shrubs and trees that have a rounded or horizontal branching form. You can also use more contrasting textures and colors with these homes than with older ones.

Plants Alter Proportions

Plants can do much to modify the proportions of the house and the size of the lawn. Just as narrow houses can be made to appear wider by planting shrubs and candle bush beside them, or wide wall spaces can be broken up by upright-growing shrubs, so parallel lines of flower borders or street trees give an illusion of added length. On the other hand, any line that cuts across our line of vision, such as a hedge or a terrace slope, foreshortens distance and gives breadth.

Plants in the center of a lawn draw our attention and seem to reduce the size of the lawn.

Small areas appear larger if you use shrubs with foliage of tine texture. Large areas need large shrubs with stout branches and large coarse-textured leaves for proper proportion.

Take advantage of the textures and colors of shrubs to lend emphasis to particular spots. Variegated, golden, or red foliage stands out against the darker green of other shrubs and holds attention. A large-leaved, coarse-twigged shrub stands out boldly against a background of finer foliage. Profuse bloom, particularly of light color, also draws attention for its period but it may spoil the general effect if it is in the wrong spot.

Landscape Services: Proper Care Required When Installing Weed Barrier

Installing weed control in your home’s gardens is a hassle in landscaping that is already established. Homeowners may choose to employ landscape servicecompanies to come in and handle the challenges that go along with the installation of weed barrier. It is not a difficult job however choosing the correct materials, prepping the land and securing the weed control are all areas that are equally important when doing this type of job in your landscaping.

Landscaping services are provided by most companies who also are employed to mow lawns and trim hedges. You will want to check with them to see if adding weed barrier is part of the services they provide. If so there are certain things to check before they begin the installation of weed barrier to your landscaping.

Make sure that the company is installing weed barrier for weed control that is made from a thick fabric. Some companies use plastic sheeting. This is not appropriate for gardens in which plants will live. It will not allow the oxygen or water to get through to the plants roots. It also creates an environment that does not allow for breathing which in turn creates mold and fungus. You need to look for a fabric that does not easily tear with your bare hands. Thinner weed fabric barriers will break down sooner allowing weeds to pop up in your landscape design.

The next thing you will want to ensure your landscape services company does is overlap the weed barrier by at least 3 inches of overlap. This ensures that weeds don’t find their way through these potential portholes of freedom.

Another area of concerns is the outside corners. It is important for pins to be used to hold the weed protection in place as you work. Corners are often neglected because the initial cut was made before checking to make sure the weed barrier had not shifted and the corners were still covered. It is also important to secure the points of intersection to keep them from shifting when applying ground cover.

Once your initial landscape weed barrier is installed it is important that your landscape services company installs a thick groundcover. Ground covering should be applied thick enough that the groundcover is not peeking through. Sunlight will cause the weed protection to break down over time. You will want a thick base coat of mulch or rock to be laid down initially and will then want to keep the area fresh by reapplying ground cover each spring to keep the covering thick and the weed barrier covered.

It is important that your landscape services company install the barrier leaving an opening that allows the plants to breath. The last thing you want is for the weed barrier to choke the plants. In order to do this correctly the company will use a technique that involves cutting an x pattern in the spot on the weed barrier where the plant will sit. They will then take the access and fold it back and cover the spot with ground cover.

It is important when dealing with landscaping that you don’t just jump in. Research the proper way to handle situations in your landscape and then execute. If you do it the other way around you will tend to throw a lot of money away in plants and materials that are of little use.

5 Must Know Tips For A Better Looking Landscape

There is no doubt that when landscaping one wants to save money, as well as have an attractive property. Not only can landscaping help you beautify your home, but it can also provide a source of satisfying exercise in the fresh air. When you take care of your yard on your own, it is possible to save money and to improve your physical conditioning. But if the landscape turns out to look bad, then that is so much time and money wasted. However, it is possible to ensure a better-looking landscape by following a few tips that can help you take better care of your yard.

Know your soil type. Some plants thrive in soil with more acidity, and others prefer a little more alkali. Additionally, sandy soil and clay soil, as well as the presence of a loamy soil, can make a difference in what types of plants will thrive in a landscape. You should have your soil evaluated in order to determine what types of vegetation should be planted on your property. When you purchase plants that will succeed in the soil conditions present in your yard, then you make a wiser money decision, and you end up with a more attractive landscape. If there are plants that you would like to use in your soil, but the soil is not quite ideal, it is possible to improve the soil to proper conditions. You need only add mulch or peat, or to add crushed limestone or clamshells, depending upon what you hope to accomplish. As long as there is not a great difference in what you have and what you hope to achieve, it is possible to make soil adjustments to be more accommodating.

Understand how much space each of the plants need. There are some plants that require more room for their root systems than others. If you choose one plant that tends to grow everywhere, and you do not have adequate space, you will find that your other plants may be crowded out or that they may choke and die. Also, make sure you understand the spacing requirements for between plants. Many shrubs and small trees need to be planted at least three to four feet apart to have enough room to grow.

Use native plants in your landscape design. One of the most effective things you can do to ensure a good-looking yard is to make use of native plants. Find out what plants grow best in your area, and what plants are indigenous to the region. This way you will already be ahead, in that you know that the plants you choose are adapted to the climate. You will not have to struggle against natural inclinations to keep your landscape looking beautiful. If you due use non-native plants, assure yourself that they come from a place that shares a climate similar to the one in which you live.

Plan your landscape around different blooming times. Different plants bloom at various times throughout the year. If all of the plants in your landscape are at their most attractive all at the same time, then your yard will look beautiful for a few weeks each year, but quite possible ugly the rest of the year. One way to help avoid this is to choose attractive bushes and shrubs that look good green, but also have some sort flower. However, it is a good idea to stagger plants among each other. Plant tulips and crocus among later-blooming plants so that in early spring the bulbs bloom, and then when those flowers’ time is up, the next plants will be in bloom. In this way the cycle of your landscape is in keeping with the seasons, and looks attractive all year round.

Use wood chips around shrubs, bushes and trees. Wood chips can help the ground around shrubs, bushes, and trees look more attractive. Not only do the chips cover the ground (often looking better than dirt), but they also help keep in moisture, repel weeds, and provide natural food as they break down. Likewise, attractive groundcover like chicks and hens placed around trees and shrubs can make the area more interesting and pleasing to the eye.

Green Landscape Design In Los Angeles - Using Native Plants In Your Landscape

In general, the landscape of a typical Los Angeles home consists of sod and softscape matter, the irrigation of which constitues approximately 50% of the average residential water bill. As one of the core tenants of low impact development is to reduce runoff, one of the most effective things we can do to reduce runoff is to lessen our overall use of water. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to make use of plants native to California in our landscape.

However, decreased water usage and runoff is not the only benefit of using native plants in your landscape. There are a number of reasons why native plants are the ideal choice for the eco-conscious home or business owner:

The native plants found in California are resistant to drought, and they are able to survive (and thrive) soley on local rainfall levels. As a result, using native plants in your landscape reduces the need for additional irrigation, and as a result, less water is sent to storm drains in the form of run off.

A reduction in watering means a reduction in water pumping costs, which requires electricity. 8% of California’s energy expenditure is geared towards pumping water.

Native plants support the delicate balance of our eco-system in ways that might not be readily apparent. For example: while there are 1000 different types of bees in California, many feed from only one speices of plant. If bees cannot survive, they cease to pollinate these plants, thereby endangering the existence of both plant and animal.

California native plants are aesthetically pleasing, and when utilized in an intelligent way as part of an overall pallete, they can create a remarkable impact in a Los Angeles landscape. In addition, these plants are certain to do well in our soil and under local conditions.

California natives work in conjunction with the ecology of our site and soil. Much of this ecology has been damaged in ways that are impercetible to us by the use of chemical fertilzer, pesticides, and cultivation. California natives augment the growth of fungi and bacterica, in addition to attracting and promoting the activity of eathworms.

These plants also tend to stablize and retain their size once full grown, which reduces pruning and maintenance. As a reuslt, our contribution to landfills is diminished. (Currently, California landfills are almost a quarter full with garden waste.

Since native plants are acclimated to local soil, the need for fertilzers and ammendments is signifcantly diminished. These chemicals alter the chemical composition of our local soil, and the by products of these chemical additives are swept away to our natural water ways.

Many of these local plants and shrubs are endangered or extinct, due in part to the expansion urbanization. Local animals depend on these plants for their livelihood.

How To Make Money At Home Growing Small Landscape Plants On 1/20 Acre Or Less

Small town, big town, it doesn’t matter, if you have a small area in your backyard that you can use for planting, then you can make money growing small plants at home. Actually you can make pretty good money on 1/40 of one acre. That’s an area about 30 feet by 40 feet.

You will be amazed at how many plants you can fit in an area that small, and at how much money you can make. Even apartment dwellers can do this! If you live in an apartment, just to get a feel for how fun and rewarding a tiny nursery can be, find somebody with a little piece of ground that they will either let you use, let you rent it, or do a joint venture with you.

Is there really a market for small plants? The market is huge, something like 4 billion dollars last year alone, and the demand is tremendous. As a small grower, you have a tremendous advantage over the larger nurseries, their overhead is very high. As a backyard grower, yours will be almost nothing.

You might be asking; "I live in a small town in a rural area, how many plants can I really sell?"

Tens of thousands if you want to. Most people don’t realize it, but large wholesale growers are the largest buyers of small plants in the country. They sell so many plants that they just can not produce them fast enough themselves, so they buy them from wherever they can find them. Just pack them up in a cardboard box and ship them anywhere you want.

I routinely buy large quantities of small plants and have them shipped thousands of miles to my house. Why do I buy plants if I know how to grow them myself? There are a lot of reasons, but one is because I am impatient and don’t like to grow Japanese Maples from seed. I can buy Japanese Maple seedlings for as little as 75 cents and all I have to do is pot them up and watch them grow.

I also buy large quantities of flowering shrubs that I would like to start propagating myself. I buy them for 50 cents, pot them up, and often sell them the next year for $4.97. But in the meantime I take cuttings from them to propagate for next year’s crop. Then I never have to buy that variety again.

Those are the same reasons that many wholesale nurseries are always looking for great deals on small plants. When they find someone like you, growing in their backyard, they are delighted because they know they can buy what they need for less money from a small backyard grower than they can if they buy from a large nursery.

It only stands to reason, your overhead is almost nothing, you don’t have to raise the price of your plants to pay for buildings, hundreds of acres of land, trucks, tractors, and dozens of employees.

How much money do you need to get started? Almost none. All you have to do is root some cuttings, and you’re on your way! There are dozens of easy plant propagation techniques that are so easy to learn that young children can do them, and with great success, I might add.

This propagation information is available to you free of charge at www.freeplants.com

The size of the area you need to get started is really up to you, but an area about the size of a picnic table is a start. I’m serious. I root my cuttings in flats that are about 12” by 15”, and can get between 100 and 150 cuttings per flat. In an area about the size of a picnic table you should be able to root several thousand cuttings at a time.

And guess what? As soon as they are well rooted, they have a value and can be sold immediately! Isn’t that cool? Typically a rooted cutting is worth about 50 cents. Let’s see now, 1500 cuttings at 50 cents each, that’s $750!!! Wow!!! The wheels should be turning now.

But you don't have to sell 50 cent plants, you can grow them until they’re bigger and get more money for them. That’s what I do, I pot them up in small pots and they sell like crazy right from my driveway at $4.97 each.

This spring we sold over $25,000 worth of $4.97 plants right from our driveway. One of the people that bought my Backyard Nursery E-book held a sale this spring and sold $2,800 worth of plants her first weekend. She was ecstatic! Of course we also sold plants for much more than that. I used to grow Japanese Red Maples and we sold those for $45 each, and they sold like hot cakes!

This is one of the most fun and rewarding home businesses you could ever get involved in. My kids have learned work ethics, the value of a dollar, and skills that will last them a lifetime. Any time they needed a little extra money all they had to do was step out the back door and earn the money they needed.

It costs very little to get started, and the rewards can be quite high. It’s certainly not a get rich quick plan (because there is no such thing!), but plenty of people have done very well in the nursery business. All it takes is determination and hard work. You can learn it as you go along. It’s much easier than you think.

Three Dependable Landscape Plants For Fast Privacy Screens In Dry Gardens

Many people are rediscovering the joys of staying home. Your garden can become the perfect place to provide a peaceful sanctuary to escape from the world and unwind. Screen plants can provide privacy in your garden, hide an unsightly area and provide shade. Hopseed Bush, Brush Cherry and Italian Cypress are three shrubs or small trees that are useful for screens, grow fast or are drought tolerant. Some plants have all three qualities!

When creating your backyard paradise these screening shrubs can also help create 'walls' to establish separate sections in a garden, so you can create different 'garden rooms' in your yard. Two of these are also good for planting in narrow spaces between houses to help block out the world. Try these versatile plants in your Patch of Heaven:

HOPSEED BUSH (Dodonaea viscosa)
USDA Zone: 9-11
Sunset Zone: 7-24
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderate to low, drought tolerant

Hop Seed bushes come with leaves in either bright, lime green or dark purple. Both versions have leaves about 4 inches long and 1/2 inch wide and are very shiny on multiple shrubby branches. These drought tolerant shrubs are fast growers to about 10 feet tall and almost as wide. They take full sun to part shade. Once established in the garden (1-2 years) they can survive on rainfall alone.

Hopseed bushes have a growth habit that is a bit airy, with lots of small branches and the long leaves add to the lacy feel. They can be trimmed as hedges or espaliers for a slightly denser effect. These are good for layering to create a full, lush feel in the border. They are perfect for the back of the bed (where the sprinkler won't reach), along fences or as border screens. In late spring they develop large, papery seed pods, usually light brown, which hang on for weeks and provide a dramatic effect. Although the seed pods break down quickly in the soil, I do not recommend planting these bushes near pools.

BRUSH CHERRY, CAROLINA LAUREL CHERRY (Prunus caroliniana)
USDA Zone: 7 - 9
Sunset Zone: 5 - 24
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderate to low

Brush Cherry is another dependable, versatile garden shrub for quick screens and hedges. These shrubs can grow up to 30 feet tall and 10 - 12 feet wide. Although I have seen mature stands of Carolina Laurel grow even taller. They can grow in full sun to part shade. Once established they can survive drought conditions. However, in desert areas they prefer less sun and will appreciate more water during the hottest summer weather.

Brush Cherries have a dense growth habit with lots of branches so they take well to heaving shearing as a hedge and can even be used for topiaries. Left untrimmed, they will still maintain their neat, shrubby shape, but the interior growth will not have leaves. They can also be trained as small multi-trunk trees. New growth is a pretty reddish rusty color in the spring. They get sprays of white flowers followed by clusters of small, bright red cherries. The cherries can stain concrete and make a mess. If you don't have enough birds in your area to take care of the cherries for you, just trim off the flowers before they set. This will also relieve the plant of the stress of producing seeds.

ITALIAN CYPRESS (Cupressus sempervirens)
USDA Zone: 7 - 9
Sunset Zone: 4 - 24
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Moderate to low, drought tolerant

Italian Cypress trees are a familiar staple in the city, growing along border lines as tall screens. They grow up to 60 feet high on single trunks and are generally 1-2 feet wide but mature plants can be much wider. All cypresses prefer full sun, but will tolerate part shade and can survive on little water once they are established in a year or two.

Italian cypress are perfect shrubs for problem areas. They grow tall but they're thin, so you can tuck them into narrow spaces. Their trunks will eventually reach about 12 inches around, so your narrow bed should at least be that wide. Their growth habit is sleek and cylindrical, with most of their leaves pointing up. They lose a small amount of needles during they year, but litter is not a big problem with these trees. They do not grow very fast the first year, but they will make up for their lack of growth in the second year. Continually trimming the tops will result in a slightly fatter shrub, but they are fairly care free, needing no trimming.

When you are planning on having your shrubs survive on rainfall, it is best to encourage deep root development early on by soaking your plants every few days instead of sprinkling the topsoil every night. Even established plants appreciate a deep soak during a heat wave, when the weather has been over 100 degrees, or when it has been especially dry and windy.

All three of these plants are growing happily in my heavy clay, alkaline soil in hot and sunny Southern California. Good luck and happy gardening!

Facing The Landscape Sun

The direction in which your house faces (north, south, east, west) is termed its exposure. This fact is of utmost importance in planning your garden. First of all, you will have to locate plants that will grow successfully in shaded areas according to the exposure; second, the position of shade trees will be most satisfactory if you determine before planting the spots where they will do the most good.

Generally speaking, a house whose front faces southeast is best adapted for the American type of home landscape. A more detailed discussion of this subject, will appear in a succeeding chapter.

Surroundings

Just as individuals are apt to reflect the habits and characteristics of their environment, landscape design should to some extent conform to the standards set by the surrounding area. This statement holds true only if the general surroundings happen to be pleasant. If, however, the land adjoining or close by to yours happens to be an eyesore, your landscape plan will emphasize seclusion and try to block off the undesirable view.

Soil

Your choice of design and of plants will also be controlled by the soil. For our purposes the two most important types of soil are (a) acid ( sour) and (b) alkaline ( sweet). The easiest thing to do is to work only with those plants that are best suited for your particular soil. However, some plants are so attractive and so well suited to home landscaping that you will feel it is worthwhile to change the type of soil in a part of the property to accommodate them. In fact, this practice is so common today that it is all but taken for granted.

You must also consider whether your soil is wet or dry. Poorly drained, wet soil is among the worst calamities that can befall any home gardener; stagnant water renders soil all but useless. Other wet soils produce good results because they have excellent aeration.

At the opposite end of the scale are the very dry soils ranging all the way to desert conditions. Here, of course, the list of plants that can be used is severely limited. Fortunately, the characteristic architecture of homes in arid regions is also limited and the plants that are in keeping with the climate and soil conditions also go well with the architecture. So, it is important for them to know all the great indoor plants.

Just as acid soil can be made alkaline, and vice versa, we have worked out ways to handle certain natural forces so that they are not too damaging to our efforts to beautify the landscape. The home gardener in Texas, for example, knows that their main problem is to sustain landscape plants successfully through the hot, dry season. To do this they apply a mulch which keeps the soil cooler and conserves its moisture for a longer period. As a result of such practices, there are in the nation's hot, dry sections beautiful home landscapes that "defy" nature.

Climbing Plants and Vines to Enhance a Landscape Design

If you want to know what's up in gardening trends, look no further than climbing plants and vines! Climbers are a great element to include in a landscape design. They can be trained to climb numerous structures of your choosing such as trellises, arbors and pergolas, decks, railings, and more. climbing plants and vines can be strategically placed throughout the garden to cast shade or provide privacy as needed. Best of all, climbing plants will draw the eye upward, adding a vertical element to a horizontal landscape.

If you want to get started with climbing plants and vines, it's a good idea to evaluate the options first. Your climate, soil type, and particular situational needs should all be taken into consideration when choosing a climbing plant. So what are some common types of climbing plants and vines? We'll explore some of the more popular options that you might want to consider.

Wisteria:
Wisteria is a beautiful flowering vine that grows rapidly in the sun. If you live in a climate that experiences winter, wisteria is a good choice, as it's hardy up to Zones 4 or 5. As it grows, wisteria can become very woody and dense. After a few years of growth, wisteria will need a strong supporting structure. Be careful where you plant wisteria. Because of its rapid growth, size, and weight, you'll want to be sure to plant it somewhere where it won't do any damage to your home or property. Large wisteria vines, when left unchecked, can easily collapse a deck or other structure.

Trumpet Vine:
Trumpet vine can be found in two varieties, Chinese trumpet creeper and standard trumpet vine. The former of these is a tropical, hardy only to Zone 8. The latter, common trumpet vine, is hardy to Zone 5. Like wisteria, trumpet vine is a rapid grower and prefers a sunny location. Trumpet vines will produce beautiful, showy flowers in midsummer, and colors vary from scarlet or orange to yellow. Trumpet vines grow and cling to their supporting structures with root-like attachments. It's important to provide good support for trumpet vines when they are first getting started, as they can grow quite large and heavy over time.

Ivy:
Almost all of us have seen buildings that are partially obscured by ivy growing up them. There are several different types of ivy, but all are fast growers and will cling easily to walls and stone work. Take care when planting ivy, however, as it is famous for damaging the structures that support it. Ivy roots can ruin the masonry work on a building, particularly when the vines are removed. Ivy is also very dense, which means it will cast shade on the building's walls. This can lead to mold growth on siding or shingles.

Clematis:
Clematis is a very popular climbing plant, and for good reason. There are dozens of varieties to choose from, many are hardy to Zone 5, and all produce beautiful flowers throughout the spring and summer months. Clematis is generally easy to grow. It prefers shade on its feet and sun on its vines. While this may sound complicated, it's easier to accomplish than you might think. Simply plant your clematis in a sunny location, and then plant a small shrub at its base to provide the needed shade on the lower part of the clematis.

Wisteria, trumpet vine, ivy, and clematis are just a few of the popular climbing plants that can be found across North America. Don't limit yourself to these four plants, but rather consider them as a starting point from which you can branch off into other species and varieties. Whatever climbers and vines you choose, be sure to plant them in an appropriate location and provide plenty of good support, if needed. Your climbing vines will reward you over time by becoming a beautiful focal point in your landscape or garden.

Landscape Plants Heights - General Rules For Use

When developing the public area, we need only keep in mind three fundamental landscape principles that concern this particular part of a property. They are: (1) soften the architectural lines of the building by placing plants where the strong vertical lines meet the ground; (2) frame the building with trees; and (3) maintain an open lawn area.

We could state the first principle even more simply by saying that the plants should be located at the corners of the building and at either side of the entrances.

Architectural Lines

Height of Plants

In nearly every case the plants to be used at the corners of the building should be of a type that will naturally grow larger than those to be used at either side of the doorway. Generally speaking, the ideal ultimate height of a plant at the corner of a one- or two-story building should be a little less than half the distance from the ground to the eaves.

In deciding what plants to use, we must find out what their ultimate height must be if they are to soften the lines of the house. First, sketch the front of the house to scale (or use a photograph and tracing paper).

Then, following the above method draw straight lines from points on each outside edge of the house slightly less than halfway to the eaves, to the center of the front door sill. Note also that the plants on either side of the door should eventually reach only about as high as the line is at that particular point.

Plants at the corners of the house are always taller than those next to the front door. The one exception to this rule occurs when the house has corner windows that wrap around both sides of the house. Many times you will see that although the plants immediately under the windows are lower than, or just about the same height as, those at the entrance, the original thought of having taller plants at the corners is carried out by the addition of small flowering trees or larger shrubs at a distance from the window. This gives the same effect, but does not sacrifice ventilation or light through the corner windows.

Pointed Plants

If possible, do not use plants which come to a sharp point at either doors or windows. But there is rare exception to this rule: Suppose that you have a house with very tall, narrow windows, or high-peaked gables or dormers; the natural surroundings include sharp-pointed evergreens and jagged mountain tops. In this case pointed plants like ficus alii at doors and windows would fit the environment.

Minimizing Salt Damage To Landscape Plants

When snow is falling and it's the middle of the night, contractors aren't thinking about landscape plants on the site they're clearing, their main concern is having the streets and sidewalks safe by morning. This doesn't mean they shouldn't be more aware of the effects of some of their actions during these times but it's more understandable when mistakes are made. As a homeowner however, you can take a little more responsibility for where you place your snow as you work to clear your walks after the storm

An awareness of what can happen to plants and turf from the use of chemicals during these events should not be understated and some work done up front may save some frustration in the future.

Chemicals Used.

**Sodium Chloride (rock salt)--applied mostly to roadways only, is very toxic to plants

**Calcium Chloride and Magnesium Chloride-- applied to sidewalks is less toxic but will cause damage at high rates.

You may have little say in how much of these deicing materials are used during a storm but there are a few things you can do to minimize damage.

o Talk with your contractor about concerns over your landscape and have them make an effort to limit chemical use when appropriate. Just having the conversation will put an awareness in their minds. This type of management is not only good for your landscape but it may also save you and your community money throughout the winter.

o Ask your contractor to install deflectors on their spreaders used for sidewalks. This will keep the bulk of the chemical directed onto the sidewalk and less spreading out to your grass edges. The main reason for dead grass along sidewalk edges and roadway edges in the spring is because of all the accumulated salt that built up in the soil over the winter.

o Talk with your contractors about turning off roadway salt spreaders when stopped at a traffic light or stop sign. In many communities and retail centers, there is a planting bed usually with flowers at these key locations. As the contractor spreads salt , they frequently stop at these areas, and in most instances, the spreaders continue to run saturating the soil. Over time, salt builds up to such high quantities , it kills most flowers and damages plantings later in the year.

Some things you can do to minimize damage :

o Irrigate- Salts are easily leached thru soils so watering these areas can help reduce the amount of damage.

o Gypsum- Gypsum applied along grass edges and planting beds where you've had issues in the past will help. Does not work as well after the

fact. Be proactive and put down before the first storm. Gypsum helps the salt leach or filter away

o Plow or shovel away from plantings- Talk with plow operators about piling snow in certain areas. Snow plowed from salted streets will have a

Landscape Gardening - Choosing Plants With Colored Foliage

There is a large range of plants with colored foliage available to the gardener today. Reddish-purple, golden-yellow, silver, and grey-leaved plants, not to speak of the many types of variegated leaf, abound in nurseries and garden centers. Amongst all the plant forms - from trees to ground covers, one can find varieties that have brightly colored leaves. The challenge is to use them wisely and not be carried away by false notions of novelty or originality.

In fact, peppering the garden with such plants is the first sign of design naïveté. Green is the foliage color that should dominate most planting schemes, while plants with colored foliage should be used very sparingly as an emphasis, a contrast, and even a focal point in the garden.

There are of course endless variations of unusually colored leaves, but they can be reduced to four main groups. As a gardener in a Mediterranean country, I will restrict my examples to those with which I am familiar.

*Red or deep-purple foliage generally creates the most striking effect, but over-use can make the garden look depressing and somber. Prunus pisardii is a small plum tree, while the large shrub, Cotinus coggygria, is well known beyond Mediterranean climates. For mild winter regions, I suggest Euphorbia cotinifolia, which if kept at about 1-2 meters by annual pruning, is particularly beautiful. Let's not forget also, the mainstay, Berberis thunbergii.

It may also be worth considering bedding plants with red-purple foliage, such as the varieties of Joyweed (Alternanthera) which can really "hold" an herbaceous border through the long, hot, Mediterranean summer. This plant should be used as an annual anywhere but in the mildest of winter climates.

* plants with golden-colored leaves make for a less dramatic, but perhaps more subtle contrast with the mass of green foliage. For subtlety, it is best to study the size and shape of the leaf, before rushing in with a colored plant. These should be as similar as possible to the green-leaved plants. Hence, the feathery texture of Melaleuca "Revolution Gold" or Melaleuca "Green Dome", combine well with junipers for instance and other species of Melaleuca.

An amazingly beautiful shrub is Duranta erecta "Golden". It has small, oval leaves, and so goes well with such shrubs as Cotoneaster, Sumac, Pistachio, and Myrtle. planting it next to a course-leaved bush like Hibiscus, would be a mistake in my view.

*plants with variegated leaves are probably the most ill used amongst inexperienced gardeners. Again, the mistake is to plant too many of them, thereby turning the unusual into the common. They are most effective in shady corners, where they create a dappled-light effect, but they tend to look sickly in full sun,

*Grey and silver-leaves are perhaps easier to use without descending into banality. They are most appropriate in Mediterranean style gardens, but seem out of place amongst lush, tropical plants. Grey-leaved shrubs should be planted in very small numbers, although some species, such as Grey Owl Juniper, or the fabulous Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) can be superb, especially in contrast to red-leaved plants.

Silver-leaved plants really come into their own in herb gardens, where they appear most at home. From an aesthetic point of view, in addition to a culinary or herbal one, plants like Lavender, Artemisia, and Sage are great, while grey-leaved grasses, such as Festuca glauca, are useful additions to an herbaceous border.

How to Garden and Landscape With Xeriscape Plants

Xeriscape translates to dry landscape. That is somewhat deceiving as it is not about dry landscaping, but efficient gardening. When we use proper techniques to landscape and garden, we actually save money, time, energy and water over the life of the garden.

The basic principles of Xeriscaping are:

Planning Soil preparation Reducing turf areas plant selection Proper irrigation Mulching

In planning, group plants according to their water and lighting needs. Place taller plants in back areas with the shorter growers in the front. It is better to water plants infrequently, yet deeper than to water lightly and often.

Plant varieties that are low maintenance and will work within a Xeric landscape are herbs such as lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, chives and oregano as well as other perennials like yarrow, Russian sage, salvia, daylilies, ameria, gaillardia, veronica, sedum, aster, phlox, and echinacea. Shrubs such as junipers, spiraea, lilacs, honeysuckle, hibiscus, caragana, cypress, barberry, nandina Firepower, boxwood, viburnum, and mock orange. Trees to look for are green ash, Grace smoketree, Japanese red maples, magnolias, river birch, oaks, flowering cherries and tulip poplar. Ornamental grasses do work well in this environment, although they will require regular watering during their first year after planting so that the root system does not dry out. After establishing their root system, they become almost drought tolerant.

Mulch should be applied in late spring to early summer to help keep the ground cool and moist. Good choices for mulch are shredded bark mulch, pine needles, straw, aged compost, and aged manure mix. Use pine needles with caution as mold can build up underneath when used in shaded areas. Using rocks as mulch, including lava stones, should be reserved for less sunny, shadier areas as the rocks absorb heat during the day and release it during the evening/cooler periods, which in summer often kill the plants.

Landscape Plants For Hot Spots

Landscape plants that are heat-beaters are difficult to find. Some are just too prim to withstand the really hot summers of late. What equation should we use in determining the best for the situation? Check your garden after an especially long, hot summer to see what not only survived, but also have potential to be the backbone of your sizzling summer landscape.

I scouted my garden, after 100 plus degree heat, looking for these workhorses that plug away, even under the most trying conditions. There are shrubs that survive the heat, and even seem to welcome it. I wilted every time I stepped out, but these garden gems stay fresh. Granted, I did irrigate during this heat wave, but there are some other unhappy plants that didn't fair so well, even with water.

There are two exceptional landscape heat-beaters. The first defeaters are abelias. Back in their glory years, abelias were overused and abused. Public landscapes that got low-or-no-care became their planting beds, giving them the nickname "gas station plants." I have never stuck up my nose at a common plant. There is good reason favorites return to the garden line-up year after year and generation after generation. They look good under dreadful conditions. They endure heat and neglect. There are days, sometimes weeks, when we have to abandon the garden. Our disappearance, no matter how temporary, can be deadly to a team of rookies.

I have the old "gas station" abelias established in my landscape. They have fresh, shiny green foliage, ready for the fall post-season garden rebirth. They bloom on new growth, so in late winter I cut them back, and they reward me with spouts of white flowers on bobbing stems. They are not just for gas stations any more.

A new abelia has moved in. Abelia Silver Anniversary(TM) is pleasing in a pot with a deep red starflower and yellow blossoming melampodium. The silver and green foliage that arise from red stems trumps the abelia blooms. Who needs flowers when the foliage is so attractive? This abelia's new foliage is almost cream, a soft yellow that surges above cherry pink stems.

As this abelia matures, the leaves become somewhat mottled green and cream with a red tinge on the ends. The prime foliage is aged into creamy soft silver with splash-painted green centers. The whole plant is a watercolor vision Monet would appreciate. Silver Anniversary(TM) is a survivor. This summer, five straight days of above 100 degrees Fahrenheit has given it a trial by fire. It passes the test-unwilting color in a heat wave. What's more, these switch hitters perform equally well in the sun or shade landscape.

The second staunch performers are the perennial coneflowers. These summer stars, the Echinacea genus, is taking over more and more of my garden. By late summer, they cover themselves with a team of daisy-like flowers with beefed up centers. These raised cone centers are the axis for the pink flower petals. The pink petals supply the landing and launching pads for the visiting butterflies and bees.

I know in my heart that I should cut the stalks of coneflowers so that a fresh squad will come along, but every time I approach them, bumblebees and butterflies are happily visiting them. I go cut something else, something not so important to my buggy friends.
These lovelies must contain nectar and pollen until the very end of summer, when their cones are dry and the petals are paled and falling. I can't cut them then, either. The seeds, held high on the coned stem ends, are bird buffets.

There are so many different colors and shapes to the coneflowers now, and as an obsessed gardener, I want them all. I believe that if I had room, I could do a whole border in coneflowers. (Then I would have to give up some other love.) There are the pinks (called purple, but varying shades of pink to my eye) with every imaginable set of petal rays- up, down, flat, curved, fat, or skinny.

The, pink 'Magnus' has wide, stocky petals. He is as full as a pink sunflower with large flowers that show off from a distance. On the opposite side of the field, 'Lilliput' is loaded with small rosy flowers made up of two rows of petals. This miniature also shows off, just with the sheer numbers of flowers covering the plant.

There are some break-through colors for these once wildflowers, too. White (Fragrant Angel(TM)) and yellow (Harvest Moon(TM)). A favorite of mine, and one that will make your heart go pitty-pat, is Summer Sky(TM). To show it off best, locate it in your landscape with green companions, in part shade if you are in a section of the country prone to brutal sunlight, near a path where its blended colors of pink, coral, orange, and golden yellow can be admired up close. The blossoms are huge. The intermingled colors invite contemplation.

Even the stalwart black-eyed-Susans are looking a little tattered and worn right now. They will need some fluffing up. Some old pros will need replacing, which is not a problem, but an opportunity to try new plants, hmm...perhaps that new gaura, 'Crimson Butterflies?' What has survived in your landscape? Expand the team this fall.