Minimizing Salt Damage To Landscape Plants

When snow is falling and it's the middle of the night, contractors aren't thinking about landscape plants on the site they're clearing, their main concern is having the streets and sidewalks safe by morning. This doesn't mean they shouldn't be more aware of the effects of some of their actions during these times but it's more understandable when mistakes are made. As a homeowner however, you can take a little more responsibility for where you place your snow as you work to clear your walks after the storm

An awareness of what can happen to plants and turf from the use of chemicals during these events should not be understated and some work done up front may save some frustration in the future.

Chemicals Used.

**Sodium Chloride (rock salt)--applied mostly to roadways only, is very toxic to plants

**Calcium Chloride and Magnesium Chloride-- applied to sidewalks is less toxic but will cause damage at high rates.

You may have little say in how much of these deicing materials are used during a storm but there are a few things you can do to minimize damage.

o Talk with your contractor about concerns over your landscape and have them make an effort to limit chemical use when appropriate. Just having the conversation will put an awareness in their minds. This type of management is not only good for your landscape but it may also save you and your community money throughout the winter.

o Ask your contractor to install deflectors on their spreaders used for sidewalks. This will keep the bulk of the chemical directed onto the sidewalk and less spreading out to your grass edges. The main reason for dead grass along sidewalk edges and roadway edges in the spring is because of all the accumulated salt that built up in the soil over the winter.

o Talk with your contractors about turning off roadway salt spreaders when stopped at a traffic light or stop sign. In many communities and retail centers, there is a planting bed usually with flowers at these key locations. As the contractor spreads salt , they frequently stop at these areas, and in most instances, the spreaders continue to run saturating the soil. Over time, salt builds up to such high quantities , it kills most flowers and damages plantings later in the year.

Some things you can do to minimize damage :

o Irrigate- Salts are easily leached thru soils so watering these areas can help reduce the amount of damage.

o Gypsum- Gypsum applied along grass edges and planting beds where you've had issues in the past will help. Does not work as well after the

fact. Be proactive and put down before the first storm. Gypsum helps the salt leach or filter away

o Plow or shovel away from plantings- Talk with plow operators about piling snow in certain areas. Snow plowed from salted streets will have a

Landscape Gardening - Choosing Plants With Colored Foliage

There is a large range of plants with colored foliage available to the gardener today. Reddish-purple, golden-yellow, silver, and grey-leaved plants, not to speak of the many types of variegated leaf, abound in nurseries and garden centers. Amongst all the plant forms - from trees to ground covers, one can find varieties that have brightly colored leaves. The challenge is to use them wisely and not be carried away by false notions of novelty or originality.

In fact, peppering the garden with such plants is the first sign of design naïveté. Green is the foliage color that should dominate most planting schemes, while plants with colored foliage should be used very sparingly as an emphasis, a contrast, and even a focal point in the garden.

There are of course endless variations of unusually colored leaves, but they can be reduced to four main groups. As a gardener in a Mediterranean country, I will restrict my examples to those with which I am familiar.

*Red or deep-purple foliage generally creates the most striking effect, but over-use can make the garden look depressing and somber. Prunus pisardii is a small plum tree, while the large shrub, Cotinus coggygria, is well known beyond Mediterranean climates. For mild winter regions, I suggest Euphorbia cotinifolia, which if kept at about 1-2 meters by annual pruning, is particularly beautiful. Let's not forget also, the mainstay, Berberis thunbergii.

It may also be worth considering bedding plants with red-purple foliage, such as the varieties of Joyweed (Alternanthera) which can really "hold" an herbaceous border through the long, hot, Mediterranean summer. This plant should be used as an annual anywhere but in the mildest of winter climates.

* plants with golden-colored leaves make for a less dramatic, but perhaps more subtle contrast with the mass of green foliage. For subtlety, it is best to study the size and shape of the leaf, before rushing in with a colored plant. These should be as similar as possible to the green-leaved plants. Hence, the feathery texture of Melaleuca "Revolution Gold" or Melaleuca "Green Dome", combine well with junipers for instance and other species of Melaleuca.

An amazingly beautiful shrub is Duranta erecta "Golden". It has small, oval leaves, and so goes well with such shrubs as Cotoneaster, Sumac, Pistachio, and Myrtle. planting it next to a course-leaved bush like Hibiscus, would be a mistake in my view.

*plants with variegated leaves are probably the most ill used amongst inexperienced gardeners. Again, the mistake is to plant too many of them, thereby turning the unusual into the common. They are most effective in shady corners, where they create a dappled-light effect, but they tend to look sickly in full sun,

*Grey and silver-leaves are perhaps easier to use without descending into banality. They are most appropriate in Mediterranean style gardens, but seem out of place amongst lush, tropical plants. Grey-leaved shrubs should be planted in very small numbers, although some species, such as Grey Owl Juniper, or the fabulous Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) can be superb, especially in contrast to red-leaved plants.

Silver-leaved plants really come into their own in herb gardens, where they appear most at home. From an aesthetic point of view, in addition to a culinary or herbal one, plants like Lavender, Artemisia, and Sage are great, while grey-leaved grasses, such as Festuca glauca, are useful additions to an herbaceous border.

How to Garden and Landscape With Xeriscape Plants

Xeriscape translates to dry landscape. That is somewhat deceiving as it is not about dry landscaping, but efficient gardening. When we use proper techniques to landscape and garden, we actually save money, time, energy and water over the life of the garden.

The basic principles of Xeriscaping are:

Planning Soil preparation Reducing turf areas plant selection Proper irrigation Mulching

In planning, group plants according to their water and lighting needs. Place taller plants in back areas with the shorter growers in the front. It is better to water plants infrequently, yet deeper than to water lightly and often.

Plant varieties that are low maintenance and will work within a Xeric landscape are herbs such as lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, chives and oregano as well as other perennials like yarrow, Russian sage, salvia, daylilies, ameria, gaillardia, veronica, sedum, aster, phlox, and echinacea. Shrubs such as junipers, spiraea, lilacs, honeysuckle, hibiscus, caragana, cypress, barberry, nandina Firepower, boxwood, viburnum, and mock orange. Trees to look for are green ash, Grace smoketree, Japanese red maples, magnolias, river birch, oaks, flowering cherries and tulip poplar. Ornamental grasses do work well in this environment, although they will require regular watering during their first year after planting so that the root system does not dry out. After establishing their root system, they become almost drought tolerant.

Mulch should be applied in late spring to early summer to help keep the ground cool and moist. Good choices for mulch are shredded bark mulch, pine needles, straw, aged compost, and aged manure mix. Use pine needles with caution as mold can build up underneath when used in shaded areas. Using rocks as mulch, including lava stones, should be reserved for less sunny, shadier areas as the rocks absorb heat during the day and release it during the evening/cooler periods, which in summer often kill the plants.

Landscape Plants For Hot Spots

Landscape plants that are heat-beaters are difficult to find. Some are just too prim to withstand the really hot summers of late. What equation should we use in determining the best for the situation? Check your garden after an especially long, hot summer to see what not only survived, but also have potential to be the backbone of your sizzling summer landscape.

I scouted my garden, after 100 plus degree heat, looking for these workhorses that plug away, even under the most trying conditions. There are shrubs that survive the heat, and even seem to welcome it. I wilted every time I stepped out, but these garden gems stay fresh. Granted, I did irrigate during this heat wave, but there are some other unhappy plants that didn't fair so well, even with water.

There are two exceptional landscape heat-beaters. The first defeaters are abelias. Back in their glory years, abelias were overused and abused. Public landscapes that got low-or-no-care became their planting beds, giving them the nickname "gas station plants." I have never stuck up my nose at a common plant. There is good reason favorites return to the garden line-up year after year and generation after generation. They look good under dreadful conditions. They endure heat and neglect. There are days, sometimes weeks, when we have to abandon the garden. Our disappearance, no matter how temporary, can be deadly to a team of rookies.

I have the old "gas station" abelias established in my landscape. They have fresh, shiny green foliage, ready for the fall post-season garden rebirth. They bloom on new growth, so in late winter I cut them back, and they reward me with spouts of white flowers on bobbing stems. They are not just for gas stations any more.

A new abelia has moved in. Abelia Silver Anniversary(TM) is pleasing in a pot with a deep red starflower and yellow blossoming melampodium. The silver and green foliage that arise from red stems trumps the abelia blooms. Who needs flowers when the foliage is so attractive? This abelia's new foliage is almost cream, a soft yellow that surges above cherry pink stems.

As this abelia matures, the leaves become somewhat mottled green and cream with a red tinge on the ends. The prime foliage is aged into creamy soft silver with splash-painted green centers. The whole plant is a watercolor vision Monet would appreciate. Silver Anniversary(TM) is a survivor. This summer, five straight days of above 100 degrees Fahrenheit has given it a trial by fire. It passes the test-unwilting color in a heat wave. What's more, these switch hitters perform equally well in the sun or shade landscape.

The second staunch performers are the perennial coneflowers. These summer stars, the Echinacea genus, is taking over more and more of my garden. By late summer, they cover themselves with a team of daisy-like flowers with beefed up centers. These raised cone centers are the axis for the pink flower petals. The pink petals supply the landing and launching pads for the visiting butterflies and bees.

I know in my heart that I should cut the stalks of coneflowers so that a fresh squad will come along, but every time I approach them, bumblebees and butterflies are happily visiting them. I go cut something else, something not so important to my buggy friends.
These lovelies must contain nectar and pollen until the very end of summer, when their cones are dry and the petals are paled and falling. I can't cut them then, either. The seeds, held high on the coned stem ends, are bird buffets.

There are so many different colors and shapes to the coneflowers now, and as an obsessed gardener, I want them all. I believe that if I had room, I could do a whole border in coneflowers. (Then I would have to give up some other love.) There are the pinks (called purple, but varying shades of pink to my eye) with every imaginable set of petal rays- up, down, flat, curved, fat, or skinny.

The, pink 'Magnus' has wide, stocky petals. He is as full as a pink sunflower with large flowers that show off from a distance. On the opposite side of the field, 'Lilliput' is loaded with small rosy flowers made up of two rows of petals. This miniature also shows off, just with the sheer numbers of flowers covering the plant.

There are some break-through colors for these once wildflowers, too. White (Fragrant Angel(TM)) and yellow (Harvest Moon(TM)). A favorite of mine, and one that will make your heart go pitty-pat, is Summer Sky(TM). To show it off best, locate it in your landscape with green companions, in part shade if you are in a section of the country prone to brutal sunlight, near a path where its blended colors of pink, coral, orange, and golden yellow can be admired up close. The blossoms are huge. The intermingled colors invite contemplation.

Even the stalwart black-eyed-Susans are looking a little tattered and worn right now. They will need some fluffing up. Some old pros will need replacing, which is not a problem, but an opportunity to try new plants, hmm...perhaps that new gaura, 'Crimson Butterflies?' What has survived in your landscape? Expand the team this fall.

Maintaining Growing Landscape Plants in a Home Setting

The drip line of your roof is an important factor in locating foundation plants even in regions which do not get much or any snow and ice. Falling rain should reach the plants, so, except in unusual cases, they should be placed at least a foot beyond the drip line. At first they may look as though they were sitting out there by themselves, but in time, as the branches spread and the plants get larger, they will gradually reach back to the house and occupy all the space provided for them.

Plants under Eaves

When under unusual circumstances, you have to place plants under the broad eaves of a mod em type house, it is perfectly all right to do so if you make sure of a constant and sufficient supply of water for them. Do not wait until the soil is bone dry before applying water; set up a regular schedule of watering (adjusted to the weather, of course) so that the plants will never be in danger of injury from drought.

Mulch

If you do not choose to maintain a ground cover under the plants, the next best thing is a layer of mulch which will keep the soil cooler in hot months and keep a supply of moisture in the ground over a longer period. This practice is absolutely essential to success in regions where several months of hot, dry weather are the rule.

The temptation to grow flowers in the midst of the foundation planting is widespread. My own view is that theoretically and ideally there should be no flowers in the public area, including the foundation planting. However, the desire for flowers is so strong that it is next to impossible to convince the average home owner that he should not have some annuals or perennials in his front yard.

Buyer Beware - Tips For Landscape Plant Budget Deals

You will have to adequately plan your landscape before you go out to buy the plants. When you go to purchase the plants, you should know what plants you will need and how much you are willing to spend on them. It is very easy to go over your budget if you're not careful. Knowing how to find good bargains helps.

The first step that you should take is to create the budget. You can research how much the plants that you are interested in should cost. If one particular plant is too expensive, you
should search for other options that will lower the overall cost.

You'll also need to know how many of each type of plant you will need. You can cut the number down and spread the plants out more or shrink the garden size if you are over budget. By planning ahead of time, you will avoid overspending and your shopping
experience will go more smoothly.

Next, you should ask around to find where you can get the best deals on your plants. Prices can vary from place to place depending on the stores size and growing methods. It is best to find the cheapest one, as long as the quality is reasonable. You need to get the correct number and types of flowers for a reasonable price.

If a certain greenhouse does not have a specific plant that you want, you can ask them for a good recommendation for a replacement plant, and/or search for another greenhouse that may have it. Trying to buy all of your plants at one place will save you time and gas money, though.

Besides plants the addition of some landscape ornaments like a garden fountain or even outdoor wireless speakers to bring music to the outdoors is also a consideration.

When choosing plants don't waste your time looking at weak or ones whose leaves look sick.

Dark green leaves are typically a good sign. The plants that you choose should not have bloomed yet. It is OK for them to have buds. The plants that are cheaper, but almost dead, are not worth buying. It also helps to choose flowers that have labels on them. These labels should explain how to take care of the plant so it can live as long and healthily as possible. Finally, to avoid spreading diseases through your entire landscape, make sure that the plants you choose do not have insects.